You may have noticed over the last 400 or so columns that Off the
Burner is not a critique or review forum. Periodically, however, I depart
somewhat and am moved to comment on a new establishment, culinary in
persuasion or at least of the hospitality bent.
So here goes.
A man of East Indian descent but living in Africa, Ashak Merani,
immigrates with family to Canada in the early 1970s. Family buys grocery
store. Family focuses, works hard, expands holdings to include a motel.
Family expands holdings even more, brothers divide assets to pursue
individual enterprises. Ashak Merani pursues hospitality real estate and
at press time controls a Four Points Sheraton in Niagara Falls, N.Y., and
in Niagara Falls, Ont., a Days Inn, and, the subject of this column, the
Sterling Inn and Spa.
Backtrack a bit. Around 1930, Bordens Dairy took over Cairns Dairy on
Magdalen Street in Niagara Falls. Bordens operated there until 1974, is
remembered for the last horse-drawn milk cart in the city, and their ice
cream. From 1974 until 2005, the building saw a succession of bars such as
Castle Rock and the Basement.
Jump ahead to 2007. The "old Bordens Dairy building" as it seems to be
known in local parlance, has emerged from ugly duckling to swan status in
the incarnation of the Sterling Inn and Spa. Family success and
progression has worked its stuff and Faisal Merani, son of Ashak Merani,
has immersed himself in the family business and now hangs his hat at the
Sterling Inn, overseeing in various guises the family properties.
Now, how does an old dairy plant-cum-smoky rock bar become a slick
boutique spa and hotel? And slick it is. Forty-one rooms with steam/spa
showers, fitness centre, his and her side-by-side massage room, high-end
dining and a specialty chef's table for up to 12 guests.
Niagara chef and consultant, J. Mark Hand, was called by the Merani
family to put together the food and beverage package for the hotel -
kitchen design, chef, sommelier, food and beverage staff. Scoring large in
Food and Beverage Manager, Hand hired Adam Ashukian, ex-Prince of Wales,
Vineland Estates and various Vancouver properties.
After spending an overnight of dining, rooming and, alongside Chief
Researcher, having a massage, it was quite obvious to us that "the old
dairy building" has found its new role in life.
But the real capper is the cuisine. In the planning stages, the
decision was made that the cuisine would be "fine dining," that it would
be regional-seasonal and that they would bring a slice of wine country
into the city. In his search, Hand could not have found a better chef for
the plan than Cory Linkson.
Linkson graduated from Niagara College's chef apprentice program in the
early 1990s. Stints for five years each at Hillebrand under Tony Deluca
and at Peller Estate winery under Jason Parsons and other notables has
rounded chef Linkson into a highly skilled and imaginative culinary
craftsman.
Our dinner one evening at Chef's Table with 10 other guests was
absolutely stellar and without hesitation I enter it into the top five
meals I have ever had in Niagara.
The wine list is 100 per cent VQA Niagara and includes such gems as
Hillebrand Glenlake Merlot 2002, Pillitteri Family Reserve Merlot 2002 and
13th Street Cuvee Thirteen.
Chief Researcher and I did a half-time change on two starters, a Seared
Sea Scallop on couscous salad with lemon thyme beurre blanc and a Beetroot
Cured Salmon "Gravlax" with Salade Nicoise and a boiled quail egg.
Outstanding flavours.
Following was one of the most interesting and delicious soups I have
ever tasted, a Truffled Jerusalem Artichoke Veloute garnished with fire
roasted peppers and hot smoked trout.
Next courses were Arctic Char with a Potato Horseradish Crust and a
Toasted Almond and Brie Crusted Beef Tenderloin with a foie gras red
currant jus. CR and I did the half-time change again - twice the bang for
the buck and double your flavour pleasure.
Of course it wasn't possible to eat any more after that so we just had
the White Chocolate and Basmati Rice Pudding with sundried cherries and
Gamay jelly and the Callebuat Chocolate Torte with spiced cabernet poached
pear. Oh, Mama.
And now to work. From the kitchen of AG restaurant at the Sterling Inn
and Spa, Chef Cory Linkson's:
Jerusalem Artichoke Veloute
Serves eight
3 lbs (1.5 kg) Jerusalem Artichokes, peeled (held in lemon water)
1 small Spanish onion, small dice
1 stem of celery, small dice
One half head garlic, peeled
One half medium russet potato, peeled and diced
5 thyme stems
1/2 litre chicken stock
1/2 litre 35% cream
Kosher salt
Ground white pepper
2 oz (50 g) butter
Sweat the onions, celery and garlic without colour (no browning or
caramelizing) in the butter. Add the thyme and sweat for another two
minutes. Add the artichokes, potato, stock and cream. Season with a pinch
of kosher salt and pepper. Simmer gently until the artichokes are fully
cooked. Remove the thyme stems. Puree in a jug blender and pass through a
strainer to unsure a velvety texture. Season again to taste with kosher
salt and pepper. Correct consistency with more stock or cream to achieve a
velvety texture.
Serve or hold for two days in the refrigerator. It can also be frozen.
If you have a question for Albert Cipryk, teacher/chef at Niagara
College, he can be reached via Niagara Culinary Institute, 135 Taylor
Road, RR4, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., L0S 1J0, or e-mail
acipryk@niagarac.on.ca