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Set to Inspire

Niagara's newest fine dining establishment's logo reads simply
“AG — Inspired Cuisine”. Ag, derived from the Latin word
argentum, is more recognizable as the periodic table of the
elements' symbol for silver. A fitting name for the lustrous
restaurant offering fresh, locally sourced ingredients that are
transformed into exquisite dishes by Chef Cory Linkson. Linkson's
creations mirror the restaurant's décor, a stunning composition of
clean lines dominated by red, black and white. Both are
demonstrations of classic elegance with modern influences. Only
one week after opening, there are no obvious growing pains or
“tweaking” required to put this place on the map. AG hits the
ground running and appears destined for success.
During our stay at AG we sampled nine of the eighteen menu
selections all of which will leave most critics nodding in approval.
Dinner begins with a tasting portion of seared sea scallop on a
bed of couscous with cured salmon salad. A pan seared scallop,
caramelized to enhance the natural sweetness is offset by a zesty
lemon thyme beurre blanc. This first taste of AG begins a parade
of palate pleasers that exemplify Chef Linkson's creativity and
skill. Imagine, if you will, the marriage of Jerusalem artichokes
and truffle blended into a smooth, creamy, velouté garnished with
roasted peppers and smoked trout. The fresh character of each
ingredient is captured in a delicate yet complex dish with no one
flavour overtaking the other. Beetroot Cured Salmon Gravlax pairs
slices of house cured salmon with salmon tartare, salad nicoise,
maple dressed sprouts and quail egg. The composition strikes a
perfect balance with the distinctive essence of anchovy, olives,
grainy mustard and sweet maple providing contrast to the
richness of the salmon. These three dishes set the stage for an
outstanding duck confit in Comfort Cream risotto. Comfort Cream
is a Camembert–like cheese produced by Upper Canada Cheese
Company of Jordan. The cheese enriches the pearly rice grains
creating a creamy canvas for the shreds of slow-cooked duck
meat while sweet potato and chanterelle mushrooms add
sweetness and earthiness.
Our entrées consist of Arctic char and beef tenderloin that
are every bit as well prepared, constructed and presented as the
preceding dishes. A healthy portion of beef is crusted with
toasted nuts, topped with brie, and partnered with foie gras and
red currant jus making this offering one that could well become
the house specialty for meat lovers. In contrast, the presentation
of Arctic char is as subtle, delicate and aromatic as the beef is
rich and powerful. The final round in this cavalcade of delights is
the dessert course that offers a few decadent surprises like real
honeycomb served with artisan cheeses and an interesting white
chocolate Basmati rice pudding with sundried cherries. The dark
chocolate torte uses quality chocolate produced by famed
Belgian-born chocolatier Bernard Callebaut.
The wine list at AG offers almost 40 labels of fine Niagara
wines underscoring the restaurant's dedication to locally sourced
products. Ten of the wines are available by the glass ($7–$11)
with bottle priced starting at $30. Well trained, professional staff
tend to every detail of your dining experience making this one
restaurant worth seeking out for that special occasion, romantic
dinner, or relaxing drink at the bar. Top–notch cuisine served in a
sleek, contemporary, boutique hotel setting is sure to make the
Sterling Inn and AG a sought after Niagara destination for
discriminating customers. Appetizers $9–$14, Entrées $21–$39,
Desserts $7–$14. Hours: Seven days a week, 5pm- 11pm (last
seating 9:30pm) P
[MIKE LOWE]

AG
@ The Sterling Inn & Spa
5195 Magdalen St.
Niagara Falls
289.292.0005
www.sterlingniagara.com

Wine Pick
Tawse Winery
2004 Beamsville Bench Chardonnay (VQA Niagara Peninsula)
375 ml. $22, 750 ml. $42, 1,500 ml. $95.
A complex nose reminiscent of apple cobbler and fresh baked
bread with a touch of smoke and butterscotch. The palate shows
ripe tropical fruit and lingering apple notes with a toasty oak
background. A bold, rich, heavyweight chardonnay that will stand
some cellaring. Gold medal winner at the 2007 Canadian Wine
Awards.
Tawse Winery
3955 Cherry Ave.
Vineland
905.562.9500
www.tawsewinery.ca